Eight great first trad leads in the Lake District
Ready to have a go on the sharp end? We've put together a list of eight great choices for your first ever trad lead in the Lake District.
You know the ropes, you've genned up on gear placement, you're a solid second and you're feeling confident. With so many incredible crags, historic locations and high quality rock, the Lakes is a great place to embark on your first ever trad lead. But which route should you choose?
Note: The grades listed here are based on the latest information provided on UKC crag listings. Grades can vary slightly in different guidebooks. Some of the route descriptions and information in this article contain 'beta' such as information on belay stances.
If you aren't sure whether or not you're ready to try a trad lead, talk to a qualified instructor.
Slab-tastic single-pitch
Starting with something at a gentler angle can feel a little less daunting than jumping on steeper terrain. A slab climb often means easier comms with your partner on the ground and less stress while placing gear.
1. Brown Slabs, Shepherd's Crag, Borrowdale
Grade: D
Length: 36m
A popular first lead on a popular crag. Brown Slabs is full of obvious gear placements, positive hand and foot holds and has a gently slabby angle (as the name suggests). There's even a friendly tree 20m up which you can sling for added reassurance.
Yes, the rock does show a little wear in places and can be slippy when wet, so aim for a decent dry day and enjoy the moves!
2. Dot's Delight, Long Scar, Pike O'Blisco
Grade: VD
Length: 30m
Nice moves on a clean, diagonal slab provides first-time leaders with a comfortable experience on some quality Langdale rock. The crag itself is relatively unintimidating, so you can relax and enjoy your climb.
There is a right-hand finish to this line which will up the ante in terms of difficulty, so stick to the central slab unless you like a challenge. Long Scar boasts a good number of D and VD climbs, so you can get plenty of practice in!
WATCH: How to lead a trad route
Short and sweet
If you fancy a go on lead but haven't quite got a head for heights just yet, there are a few shorter options that can help you build confidence and prepare for bigger things!
3. Bird's Nest Direct, Head End Quarry, Wigton
Grade: D
Length: 8m
Not quite in the Lake District, but not far. Head End is a small former limestone quarry on the northern edge of the Lakes. It's a popular location for guides and groups owing to its two minute walk-in, short routes with (usually) good gear and stake belays which can also be used to set up top-ropes - be mindful not to cause further erosion and take the necessary preventative measures if doing so.
Bird's Nest Direct is one of a number of options for a short lead where you can focus on gear and technique without the added anxiety of building a belay or exposure. A steep start leads to friendlier, blocky terrain where you can really get comfortable and work on placements.
4. Trod Tethera, Glaciated Slab, Borrowdale
Grade: VD
Length: 22m
One of a selection of short-ish routes on slabby ground. Be warned - the first 6m are a little thin on gear so will require a steady head and focus - there are other options at slightly higher grades that will yield better protection lower down.
After negotiating the initial difficulty, this is a lovely pitch with some cool moves and a gentle enough incline so as not to feel too intimidating. A good exercise in the more 'sideways' gear placements you can often find on this kind of terrain, and generally good quality rock.
WATCH: Multi-pitch climbing | set up a belay at a stance
Multi-pitch
Got a few single pitch ticks in place? Time to take on something a little (or a lot) longer... Maybe you've seconded multi-pitch and are ready to try a pitch on lead? Having a confident and experienced partner on hand will help you to feel comfortable, and a good understanding of belays, rope management and escape methods is a must.
5. Middlefell Buttress, Raven Crag, Langdale
Grade: D
Length: 75m, 3 pitches
Ready to swing leads? Middlefell Buttress is a great first multipitch that will give you a real taste for Lakeland mountain cragging.
As with many of the areas' most popular routes at the grade, you'll certainly come across a bit of polish here and there. Holds are generally positive and gear plentiful though, so keep calm and trust those feet. Belay stances are roomy and comfortable. Avoid variations to the left or right if you want to stay at D grade.
6. Giant's Crawl, Dow Crag, Coniston
Grade: D
Length: 115m, can be climbed in 5-7 pitches depending on rope length.
You'll certainly want someone experienced with multi-pitching on hand for this one, but as far as beautiful locations and laidback climbing go, it doesn't get much better than this! Plan your pitches beforehand and enjoy big moves on even bigger holds and views across Goat Water below. Not for those with a fear of exposure, but a great experience for a first big mountain day out.
7. Little Chamonix, Shepherd's Crag, Borrowdale
Grade: VD
Length: 70m, 4 pitches
A true classic and a rite of passage for trad enthusiasts! Long and varied terrain will take you across through angles and exciting moves that require a little forethought. It is very possible to run pitches 2 and 3 together without adding much rope drag, but pitching them out means extra belay building practice.
The saddle belay position at the top of pitch 2 is a little precarious, so consider tee-ing up the most experienced party member to take on that one if you feel unsure.
8. Needle Ridge, The Napes, Great Gable
Grade: VD
Length: 114m, 5 pitches
A beauty of a route in a remote location. Follow in the footsteps of the first British rock climbers!
A lengthy walk from Seathwaite, Borrowdale or Wasdale will take you to one of the Lake District's most historic mountain crags. Varied climbing on relatively laidback terrain - think slab, chimney, corner and traverse - with views of the area's other Classic Rock route, Napes Needle. The height and aspect can mean chilly conditions even on a sunny day, so pack layers and a picnic. Finish up Pinnacle Ridge (Mod) to continue the climbing on to the summit of Great Gable.
WATCH: Arc’teryx Lakeland Revival | Middlefell Buttress
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