Tokyo 2020 Sport Climbing: Day 1 Men's Qualification Round
Highlights of first day of Sport Climbing at the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games, the men's qualification round.
History was made as 20 of the world’s top climbing athletes gathered to take part in the head to heads of the Speed qualification round, followed by Bouldering and then Lead. As well as pressure, nerves, and the difficulties of the climbing, athletes had to battle the heat and humidity of a Tokyo summer as well.
Temperatures started out at a toasty 31°C at 5pm in Tokyo for the Speed qualification round before dropping to a ‘balmy’ 29°C when evening fell and the Lead qualification began. But the athletes battled on regardless.
Speed Qualifiers
The first climbers to ever compete at the Olympics came out and suddenly it had begun. Then, in a mere 6.48 seconds, the first round was over. Chris Cosser of the Republic of South Africa stormed up the wall in Lane A to post the time of 6.48 while Jongwon Chon of South Korea in Lane B suffered an early slip and failed to complete his run.
Athletes continued to line up for their vertical sprint and the only slight surprise was how well the Boulder and Lead specialists fared up against those that had qualified for the Olympic Games mainly based on their Speed prowess. Tomoa Narasaki of Japan came second with his only time of 5.94 seconds, just pipping Mickael Mawem of France who managed 5.95 seconds. Not to say that the Speed specialists didn’t impress though, as Basa Mawem of France, Mickael’s brother, was fastest by a huge 0.5 seconds with his time of 5.45 seconds, the new Olympic Record for Speed Climbing, and Rishat Khaibullin of Kazakhstan had the fourth fastest time of 6.19 seconds.
Fortunately the sun had set by the time the Bouldering round started, which may have helped ease temperatures slightly. Although, the amount of sweat running down Sean McColl’s face indicated otherwise.
Bouldering Qualifiers
The four problems of the Bouldering round certainly put the athletes under pressure, as they all proved extremely challenging. The easiest seemed to be B1, the slab, which still spat off some of the favourites to win, including Adam Ondra of the Czech Republic. It consisted of a delicate start on sloping volumes leading to an awkward rockover on a tiny foot smear to a balancey finish. Perhaps the variety of ways to climb it allowed more climbers to reach the top.
The hardest was definitely B2, a tricky route that seemed to have no discernible solution and it seemed that not a single climber would even reach the zone hold. However, that was until Mickael Mawem came out and flashed the impossible climb which elicited a huge roar from the small crowd of spectators.
B3 was definitely the crowd pleaser problem, with a huge paddle dyno leading to a one-hand catch and a massive swing. Once caught, there was still work to do as the finishing hold could be easily reached with one hand but proved very difficult to match. Adam Ondra spent a good minute or two trying to figure it out, but had to admit defeat when he couldn’t discern that it required yet another dynamic move to slap into the flat undercut with both hands to match.
Another tough problem finished off the Boulder qualification round as B4 challenged all the climbers with its inverted, feet first, start with hands on terrible holds. Once right way up, following matching a double toe hook with your hands, a powerful move was required with barely any feet to then find a hand jam in a 4cm crack. Only three climbers managed to reach the top, Adam Ondra, Aleksey Rubtosv of the Russian Olympic Committee and Jakob Schubert of Austria.
Tough boulders saw only Mickael Mawem achieve three tops, putting him well in the lead, closely followed by Tomoa Narasak in second place and Adam Ondra in third.
Lead Qualifiers
Lastly, the now tired athletes prepared for the final climb of day in the Lead Qualification Round – unfortunately it would also be the longest climb! The lead route starts off steep and just keeps getting steeper, with the main part of the wall coming in at 36° overhanging while the lightning bolt of volumes that make up the middle of the 15m wall are even steeper at 40° overhanging.
The route begins with what look like fairly easy 3D climbing leading to a dyno that essentially marks the beginning of the difficult climbing. Some off balance moves lead to the start of the lightning bolt in the centre of the wall and a series of large flat holds lead the way with a lot of compression and heel hooking. Then the moves out left, gaining an undercut out wide followed by big pinches with little for your feet, spat off many a climber, especially the non-lead specialists. By this point the climbers are really cooking, and a tough section leads to an even tougher finale traverse having to use a terrible undercut above your head. No climber managed to reach the top and only two got close to even eyeballing the final hold, Jakob Schubert and Colin Duffy of the USA both reached the same high point but Jakob took first place in the Lead round due to reaching the high point faster than Colin, meanwhile Alberto Gines Lopez of Spain took 3rd place in Lead.
After all that, the first day of Olympic Sport Climbing was over. Everyone gave their all but only the top eight would make it through to compete again in the final. Congratulations to all those that qualified and commiserations to those that missed out.
Men's Finalists Sport Climbing Tokyo 2020
UPDATE: In an interview with French media, Bassa Mawem confirmed that he has sustained a complete rupture of his biceps tendon and will be unable to compete in the final on Thursday and that Alex Megos will not take his place.
Related Content
Rock Destinations
Dreaming of big numbers this year? We reveal six sizzling holiday rock destinations that will send your grade through the roof. Whether your sight is on 6b or you're aching for 8a, here are Steve McClure's top picks.
Perfformiad Newyddion
The IFSC Paraclimbing European Championships in Villars, Switzerland, this weekend saw 13 GB Climbing athletes clip into the Lead wall, delivering strong performances and personal bests across the board.
Olympics News
The Paris 2024 Olympic Games have been a historic occasion for British climbing, marking a significant milestone in the sport's journey.
Perfformiad Newyddion
Bursting onto the scene in 2024, 20-year-old Erin McNeice has cemented herself as one of the world’s best climbers. Qualifying for the finals in seventh, McNeice proved she was a force to be reckoned with.
Olympics News
In a thrilling conclusion to the Men's Sport Climbing finals at Paris 2024, Great Britain's Toby Roberts secured a sensational gold medal while Hamish McArthur takes an emotional fifth.
Perfformiad Newyddion
Erin McNeice qualifies for Olympic final whilst Thompson-Smith finishes with a top-ten Lead performance.
Perfformiad Newyddion
Following today’s Lead Semifinal, Great Britain are the only nation to qualify two athletes for Men’s Boulder & Lead Final.
Dringo Creigiau Newyddion
While Paris 2024 is a fantastic watch and we’re cheering our TeamGB climbers on with gusto, scaling brightly-coloured, plastic holds isn’t for everyone. Cue Fontainebleau (Font), a world-renowned bouldering destination on natural rock, deep in the forest, only 70km south of this year’s Olympic capital city.
Perfformiad Newyddion
Erin McNeice and Molly Thompson-Smith put their first points on the scoreboard at Paris 2024, as the Women's Boulder Semifinal took place at Le Bourget yesterday, part of the Boulder & Lead event.
Perfformiad Newyddion
The Men's Boulder Semifinal at Paris 2024 got underway today on the walls of Le Bourget, with four fresh boulders ready to be tackled. Today marked a moment for the history books as Great Britain’s Hamish McArthur and Toby Roberts made their Olympic debuts. They are the first men to represent Great Britain in Sport Climbing at the Olympic Games.
Perfformiad Newyddion
Get ready for wall-to-wall action as the sport climbing competition at Paris 2024 kicks-off today with four Olympic debutants taking to the wall for Great Britain.
Indoor Climbing Articles
In a matter of days, 40 climbers from all around the globe will battle it out across three climbing disciplines of speed, lead and bouldering on the world's most watched wall of the year. Four British climbers will be among them representing Great Britain in Sport Climbing at Paris 2024 Olympic games. But how and where can you watch all the action? We have all the answers.
Olympics
With four GB Climbing athletes heading across the channel for the Olympic boulder and lead competitions starting Monday 5 August, not only are they bringing their A-game in terms of performance but, as part of the BMC, the whole team is supporting Paris 2024 in its bid to be the ‘greenest ever Games’.
Olympics News
The 2024 Olympic Games are underway, and the nation's eyes are firmly on Paris and all the Team GB athletes. As Sport Climbing makes its second-ever appearance at the Olympic Games, we get to witness a new chapter in history as four climbers step out onto the mats to represent Great Britain.
Olympics Articles
A brief history of competition climbing
Dringo Creigiau Dysgwch Sgiliau
Do you know your gaston from your guppy, and can you spray about it while sandbagging your mate? Find out what it all means with our guide to climbing terminology.
Rock Climbing Articles
The Youth Ready to Rock Sport climbing course is designed to help young climbers (11-17 year olds) make their first moves onto rock by having a fun day out, as well as covering the use of some key skills and equipment, for both the participant and the parent/carer.
Rock Climbing Articles
It might seem like a lofty goal, but maybe it’s time to give 8a a go. All you need is the right route, a shot of determination, and to read this 10 step guide on how to climb 8a.
Dringo Creigiau Dysgwch Sgiliau
Lowering off from a sport climb isn't always as easy as it is at the climbing wall. Knowing a few techniques can make the difference between an enjoyable day's climbing and a trip to A&E.
Rock Climbing Articles
Back in 2017, Margo Hayes ticked La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana, Spain. By September that same year she had climbed another 9a+, Biographie at Ceuse, and in 2019 she ticked her third. How does she do it?
Mynediad Dysgwch
Access to the south side of Cheddar Gorge is fragile and relies upon climbers following the agreements in place with the landowner.
Dringo Creigiau Dysgwch Sgiliau
A common and false perception of abseiling is that it is an adventure activity that is completely safe. But accidents do occur even in controlled circumstances.
Dringo Creigiau Dysgwch Sgiliau
What are the different types of climbing and mountaineering and what do they involve?
Rock Climbing Articles
Dream of climbing 7a but think you’ll never reach that level? With a little hard work and some secret beta from top sport climber Steve McClure, you’ll be clipping the chains on your project in no time.
Dringo Creigiau Dysgwch Sgiliau
Trad climbing offers an unparalleled sense of freedom. With the appropriate skills, training, and equipment you really do have the ability to go anywhere. Here we give the low down on how to get started.
Rock Destinations
Thought sport climbing was all about tiny holds on short routes? Think again. Here we've got five top European venues to recommend you:
Dringo Creigiau
Here are Steve's McClure's top 8 crags for kids:
Get Climbing
Here's all you need to know about starting indoor bouldering
Dringo Creigiau Dysgwch
If you've learnt to climb routes indoors, sport climbing can be a logical first step into the exciting world of outdoor climbing. Here's how to get started...
Rock Destinations
Planning a winter sport-climbing escape? Leave the crowds and polish behind with these five best-kept mid-grade Spanish sport secrets. Dos cervezas por favor.
Dringo Creigiau Dysgwch Sgiliau
Climb grade 5 outdoor sport routes, but want to progress? How do you start pushing your comfort zone, and what should you focus on?
Indoor Climbing Articles
Nathan Phillips and Holly Toothill won the crown at the La Sportiva BMC British Bouldering Championships 2019. See below for the replay of the finals and a link to the full results:
Dringo Dan Do Newyddion
The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) can today announce that the 2024 British Boulder Championships will be hosted at Last Sun Dance in Leeds.
Olympics News
Four sport climbers will make their Olympic Games debuts this summer for Team GB as the British Olympic Association (BOA) name the team that will compete at the Paris 2024 Olympic Games.
Dringo Creigiau
Dinorwig slate quarries gained UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 2018
Perfformiad Newyddion
The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) celebrates the historic inclusion of Paraclimbing in the LA28 Paralympic Sport Program. This landmark decision represents a significant milestone for the sport, reflecting its growing popularity globally.
Perfformiad Newyddion
The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) can today announce the 15 athletes selected to represent the GB Climbing team at the IFSC Paraclimbing World Cup Innsbruck 2024. Competition will run from Monday 24 June to Tuesday 25 June at the Kletterzentrum Innsbruck.
Olympics News
The culmination of the Olympic Qualifying Series in Budapest saw GB Climbing athletes Erin McNeice, Hamish McArthur, and Molly Thompson-Smith qualify for the Paris 2024 Olympics Games.
Perfformiad Newyddion
Round Two of the Olympic Qualifying Series (OQS) kicked off in Budapest, marking the athletes' final opportunity to secure a spot for Paris 2024. As the heat was turned up on and off the wall the top 20 men’s and women’s Boulder & Lead semi-finalists have been confirmed.
Perfformiad Newyddion
The Olympic Qualifier Series (OQS) is reaching its finale at the Ludovika Campus in Budapest this week. A total of 48 top climbers from around the globe will vie for their last chance to secure a spot in the Boulder & Lead event for Paris 2024.
Perfformiad
After six remarkable years with the GB Climbing Team, Richard Slocock has announced his retirement from international competition. With an impressive tally of three gold, two silver, and three bronze medals, the 44-year-old’s contributions to the GB Climbing team have been extraordinary.
Olympics Articles
GB Climbing's Toby Roberts talks training, mindset, hopes and fears for his first Olympic Games this summer.
Dringo Dan Do Newyddion
Works on the upgrade of the bouldering facilities at Edinburgh Leisure’s flagship climbing arena at Ratho will begin on Monday 3rd June following a major funding investment from sportscotland’s Sport Facilities Fund. There will be a steady schedule of works across the summer and autumn as the changes occur.
Olympics News
Erin McNeice and Hamish McArthur put on a world-class show in the finals of Boulder & Lead competition at the Olympic Qualifier Series Shanghai, on Sunday (18 May).
Perfformiad
The third day of the Olympic Qualifying Series (OQS) featured the men’s and women’s Boulder & Lead semi-finals, selecting the top-eight athletes to compete in the final.
Perfformiad
Part one of the Olympic Qualifying Series in Shanghai, China, began today with the Boulder qualifying round. 46 men and 48 women are contesting the combined Boulder and Lead event at the city’s Urban Park over a four-day event on the Huangpu riverside, all in a bid to secure coveted spots at Paris 2024.
Perfformiad Newyddion
The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) can today announce the lineup that will compete in Shanghai, China to represent the GB Climbing team at the first event of the Olympic Qualifying Series from Thursday 16 to Sunday 19 May 2024.
Perfformiad Newyddion
The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) is proud to reaffirm our commitment to clean sport by backing UK Anti-Doping’s (UKAD’s) Clean Sport Week campaign from 13 - 17 May.