Weekend Roundup: Smith and Edwards secure Silver and Bronze in Salt Lake City and Graz

Paraclimbing World Cup, Salt Lake City, USA

Great Britain’s Luke Smith achieved a significant milestone this week by clinching his first-ever silver medal in the opening Paraclimbing World Cup of the season in Salt Lake City.

The RP3 athlete showcased remarkable athleticism by securing second place in the qualification round, reaching hold 37 on route one and hold 34+ on route two, finishing closely behind Japan’s Tadashi Takano. Smith continued his consistency in the finals, ultimately claiming the second position overall, with Takano topping the round and Smith reaching hold 32.

Reflecting on his achievement, GB Climbing athlete Luke Smith commented, “I am very happy to get my first medal at an international competition; after breaking my hand recently it has taken really strength and determination to get back to this level of competition. To get silver really means a lot and I look forward to the next competition, in which I hope to continue contesting for the podium!”

In a notable debut, Mat Armitage delivered an outstanding international performance in a competitive category, securing 8th position in the men’s AL2 competition by reaching 12+ on route one and 23 on route two.

Seasoned athlete Jesse Dufton narrowly missed out on the finals, finishing fourth in the B1 competition. Dufton was guided by his wife, Molly Dufton, in a field where only the top three athletes would make it to the finals. Matt Styles-West also performed extremely well, securing another fourth-place finish for the British team in AU3 with James Rudge adding to the tally with a fourth-place finish in the AU2 category. Rounding out the team’s results was the RP1 athlete Laurence Morgan who finished his competition in 11th.

GB Climbing coach, Jamie Vardy, commented, “Luke Smith’s silver medal is truly inspiring. Making it to the finals is a testament to his dedication. Three of our athletes narrowly missed the finals by one place, but their unwavering effort and personal best results are a reflection on their hard work and talent.”

Lead:

Luke Smith (RP3) - 2nd⁠

Jesse Dufton (B1) - 4th ⁠

James Rudge (AU2) - 4th ⁠

Matt Styles-West (AU3) - 4th ⁠

Mat Armitage (AL2) - 8th⁠

Laurence Morgan (RP1) - 11th⁠

Boulder and Speed World Cup, Salt Lake City

In the Boulder event, 17-year-old Lucy Garlick made her semi-finals debut, securing 15th place after qualifying in 17th. In a competitive field, Eugenie Robinson-Lee scored her highest World Cup result to date finishing 42nd.

Dayan Akhtar continued his impressive form from May’s Boulder World Cup in Keqiao, China, securing twentieth place in the men’s competition whilst Toby Roberts narrowly missed out on making finals, finishing seventh despite flashing problems 3 and 4 and topping 1 and 5.

Matthew Fall opened his 2024 speed season with his second-best performance at a World Cup to date in 31st place.

Boulder

Toby Roberts – 7th

Lucy Garlick – 15th

Dayan Akhtar – 20th

Eugenie Robinson-Lee – 42nd

Speed

Matthew Fall – 31st

European Youth Cup, Graz, Austria

The Boulder Youth European Cup in Graz concluded with a remarkable performance from Britain’s Emma Edwards, securing bronze in the women’s U20 competition after suffering a broken-elbow in the off-season.

Held at Bloc House, the event witnessed intense competition among Europe’s top youth climbing talent, with five GB Climbing athletes making it to the finals.

Rhys Conlon narrowly missed securing a podium spot in the U20 men’s category, finishing fourth, closely followed by Luca Martins in seventh position. Sam Hammond delivered a personal best result with a fourth-place finish in the U18 category in his first year competing internationally.

Imogen Lilley made a promising debut, marking her finals debut at the age of 14 and securing a commendable 9th place. Her performance lays a strong foundation for her future in the sport.

The event marked the conclusion of the Boulder Youth European Cup, with attention now shifting to the Lead season.

Commenting on the teams' collective achievements, Jon Garside the BMC’s Acting Head of Performance, said, “We are really pleased with the results we have seen across all three competitions, especially Luke Smith securing silver in Salt Lake City and Emma Edwards with bronze in Graz. With further opportunities to compete on the international stage in 2024 we now look forward to seeing our junior athletes turn their attention towards Lead whilst our senior athletes prepare for future World and Continental Cups”

“We’re hugely grateful for the ongoing support from coaches, parents and guardians who continue to play their role in helping sport climbing go from strength to strength”

U20 F

Emma Edwards – 3rd

U20 M

Rhys Conlon – 4th

Luca Martins – 7th

U18 F

Connie Bridgens – 13th

Izzy Bridgens – 17th

Fae Macdougall – 21st

U18 M

Sam Hammond – 4th

Tom Steele – 31st

Finley Kerswell – 46th

U16 F

Imogen Lilley – 7th

Iggy Rinaldi – 23rd

Florence Nuttall – 40th

U16 M

Harveer Seikham – 14th

Tom Bouwknegt – 39th